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Wine List > France > Bordeaux Red > Bordeaux |
2010 Canon
France, Bordeaux, Red
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Canon, St Emilion, Bordeaux
| Country: | France | | Region: | Bordeaux | | Appellation: | Saint-Emilion | | Grower: | Canon | | Colour: | Red | | Vintage: | 2010 |
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| Size: | BT (75cl) | | RP/WA: | 91+ | | Available: | In bond | | Drink: | 2020 - 2050 | |
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Grape variety: 75 % Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc Tasting Notes: An elegant, attractive blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc cropped at 35 hectoliters per hectare, this wine tips the scales at 15% natural alcohol which, given the more elegant style sought at Canon, tells readers a lot about how powerful the 2010 vintage was across all the appellations of Bordeaux. Exhibiting plenty of raspberry, blueberry and black cherry fruit as well as some crushed rock/chalky minerality and a floral note, this very impressive Canon is backward, structured and precise. Give it 7-8 years of bottle age and drink it over the following three decades.
Canon’s vineyard measures 50+ acres, and the wine is looked after by well-known consultant Gilles Pauquet. Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (205) Jancis Robinson 16 (2010) - Slightly smudgy on the nose. Thick and sweet and angular on the palate. Job done, but without enormous grace, and surely with quite a bit of oak?  Wine Spectator 91-94 (2010) - Ripe, with dark blackberry and linzer torte fruit laced nicely with the racy, mouthwatering acidity and strong graphite spine of the vintage. Long, driven and very solid, with serious, charcoal-tinged grip. —J.M.
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75 % Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc Merlot:
 Used for both blending and varietal wines, Merlot is the foremost grape in the Bordeaux. Merlot wines usually have a medium body with hints of berry, plum and currant. Its softness and fleshiness, combined with earlier ripening, makes Merlot a popular grape for blending with the sterner, later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon, with its higher tannin levels. Its name comes from the Occitan word “merlot” which means “young blackbird” – a nod towards the grape’s beautiful dark-blue colour. An offspring of Cabernet Franc (and therefore a sibling of Cabernet Sauvignon), it was first mentioned in 1784 where a labelled wine made from the grape attracted praise from all quarters.
The grape can easily be identified by its loose bunches of large, plump grapes. The colour is less or a blue/black hue than Cabernet Sauvignon and it has a thinner skin, with correspondingly fewer tannins. Pruning has a massive impact on the outcome of the wine, with reduced yields giving higher quality wine. Merlot has a propensity to quickly over ripen after hitting its initial ripeness level, sometimes in a matter of a few days. The renowned Chateau Petrus favours early picking to ensure acidity and ageing potential, while other growers favour late picking and the added fruitiness that comes with the additional ripeness of the fruit.
Merlot is now the most commonly grown grape in France, which claims two thirds of the world’s total Merlot cultivation.
Cabernet Franc:
 Cabernet Franc is one of the major red grape varieties worldwide, principally being grown for blending with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the Bordeaux style, but can also be vinified alone, as is the case with the Loire’s Chinon.
As might be expected it is in general it is very similar to its offspring Cabernet Sauvignon, however it buds and ripens at least a week earlier. This allows the vine to thrive in slightly cooler climates, such as the Loire and even Canada. The winged bunches are elongate and small-medium in size, with the berries being quite small and blue-black in colour, with fairly thin skins. The grape is highly yield sensitive, with over-cropping producing wines with more green, vegetal notes than is usual.
In France it is found predominantly in the Loire Valley and in the Libournais region of the Bordeaux. As of 2000, it was the sixth most widely planted red grape variety in the country. Internationally speaking it can be found in Italy, Canada, and the USA in significant quantities. Interestingly in the USA it is used by ‘Meritage’ wines that aim to emulate the Bordeaux blend in California, while in Canada it is used to produce superlative ice wines with immensely concentrated flavours.
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 Originally a small vineyard planted around the Church of St-Martin by Jean Biès in the early 18th Century, the estate was named Clos St-Martin, sold in 1760 to Jacques Kanon, probably the source of the name Canon. A true clos, the original 12 hectare vineyard was encircled by a wall, which Kanon expanded by acquiring seven small surrounding vineyards. He sold it on in 1770 with great profit to Raymond Fontémoing, a leading Libournais négociant. Still named Clos St-Martin, the name was not altered until 1853, when the modern name was taken, to the fury of the proprietors of Château Canon of Fronsac.
Purchased by André Fournier in 1919, the estate remained in the Fournier family with success until vine disease problems arose in the early 1990s, and it was sold on to the Wertheimer family in 1996.
The vineyard area extends 21.5 hectares (of which 13 lie within the original clos, with grape varieties of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc.
Chateau Canon annually produces on average 7,500 cases of the Grand vin Chateau Canon and the second wine Clos de Canon.
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.jpg) Often described as “the hill with a thousand chateaux” this region boasts over 800 winegrowers in total – only just falling short of its hyperbolic status. The oceanic climate is made more temperate by the cooling presence of the Dordogne. The fall is a sunny affair which is fantastic for optimal ripening.
The terroir is comprised of four major zones. The centre is a limestone plateau surrounded by terraces of chalk, clays and then silts. In the northwest of the region there is much sand, while in the south in the Dordogne valley there are airier soils of tiny stones and sand.
Given the above, the wines of Saint-Emillon vary a great deal from composed and intricate to powerful and dense, with the former being sourced from the south and the latter coming from the uncompromising limestone core of the region.
Cabernet Sauvignon, which drags its heels in terms of ripening, has little place here. Instead Merlot and Cabernet Franc take the fore at 60% and 30% of vines planted, respectively.
If it were possible to generalise these distinct wines it would be fair to say that they are, for the most part, warm, corpulent and vivid in colour. Flavours of plump red fruit berries with undertones of creamy vanilla, saddle-leather and soft spices are also to be found. This is layered with a velvet texture provided by solid yet supple tannins – giving an overall fleshiness.
Soils: Limestone, clay-limestone, gravels, chalks and silts.
Size: 5,500 hectares
Output: 36,000,000 bottles
Type of wine produced: Full-bodied reds, for the most part
Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Franc
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Vintage Overview One phrase which is being used increasingly to describe the 2010 vintage is ‘embarrassingly good.’ Given how 2009 was lauded to the heavens by the bordelaise as ‘the best ever’, it’s something of an awkward truth that – a mere twelve months later - we are faced once more with awe-inspiring quality. A due sense of cynicism is to be expected, but this mustn’t interfere with our appreciation of what is, quite objectively, a fabulous vintage.
Not that this came as a sudden surprise, as Bill Blatch (Bordeaux expert and negociant) notes: “Back in November, many owners were already quietly confident that their ’10 was better than the already legendary ’09 but, coming hot on the heels of the hallowed 2009s, they seemed embarrassed to say it too loudly. Today, half of Bordeaux is less timid in assessing ’10 as great as, if not greater than ’09.” He adds, “There is one point of total agreement: It is totally different from its predecessor.”
What we appear to have is more of a stylistic shift, while the quality has remained essentially static in its excellence. This quality isn’t reserved to the top tiers of Bordeaux producers, either. David Peppercorn MW observes that wines are attractive at all levels, from lesser properties all the way up to Grand Crus: “Those with lesser sites have made excellent wines.” He added that he would be quite happy to list many of them as everyday wines at the prestigious West End Garrick Club, where he sits on the wine committee. The Reds
These are not wines for the faint-hearted, and in their excellence they are uncompromising. The average alcohol level is 14.5 per cent, peaking at 15.5 per cent in some cases. In addition, pH values are very low, acidity is obviously very high, and the tannins are formidable (ensuring fantastic ageing potential.)
Overall, these are ripe, dense wines packed with sweet fruit notes such as raspberry, strawberry and black cherry. Some are so richly flavourful that they take on a delicious ‘pruney’ dimension. Ordinarily this would be overpowering, but the keen balancing acidity keeps everything in check.
There is also what we might call a ‘rustic’ edge to many of these reds, in contrast to the silky voluptuousness of the 2009s. This is due to a searing hit of green tannins, which will develop and imbue the wine with steadily greater structure and balance.
Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc were generally picked in near-perfect conditions during the gloriously dry conditions of mid-October. (Click here to close this window)
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Wine and vintages available from Canon
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Region |
Colour |
Vint. |
Wine/Producer |
Size |
Qty |
Type |
Price \/ |
IB/DP |
MC/UW |
RP/WA |
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| + |
Bordeaux |
Red |
2012 |
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BT (75cl) |
6 |
Case of 12 |
£400.00 |
ib |
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91-94 |
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A dense ruby/purple color is followed by notes of black raspberries, blueberries, crushed rocks and spring flowers. This medium to full-bodied, well-endowed, authoritative Canon reveals some serious tannin in the finish, so 4-5 years of cellaring will be needed after bottling. It should last 15-20 years. Owned by the Wertheimers (also the proprietors of the enormously successful haut-couture house of Chanel), this is a pure, stylish, nicely textured, impressive effort from a superb terroir on the limestone plateau of St.-Emilion. The final blend was 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc, and yields were a modest 35 hectoliters per hectare.
Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (206)
 Wine notes |
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| + |
Bordeaux |
Red |
2011 |
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BT (75cl) |
10 |
Case of 12 |
£652.00 |
ib |
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87-89 |
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The 2012 Canon is primarily Merlot blended with 25-30% Cabernet Franc from the estate’s 85 acres (now one of St.-Emilion’s largest properties since they have been purchasing adjacent parcels on the top of St.-Emilion’s limestone plateau). With 13.5% natural alcohol, the traditionally-styled 2012 possesses a deep ruby/purple color, sweet plum, black currant and mossy/forest floor-like notes, a hint of crushed chalk, and a medium-bodied, zesty finish displaying sweet tannin as well as vibrant acidity. This wine will require 2-4 years of cellaring and should drink well for 15 or more. Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (200)
Wine notes |
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The 2010 Chapelle Ausone is a very elegant wine with rather tart acids, this second wine of Ausone is medium-bodied, has dark raspberry and blueberry fruit notes with some hints of wet stones. Pure, nicely textured, but rather backward, this wine needs further bottle age. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2030.
One of the other perfectionist, compulsive producers in St.-Emilion is Alain Vauthier, who is now capably assisted by his daughter. Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (205)
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Bordeaux |
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A brilliant effort from this property, known for the sheer elegance and finesse of its wines, the 2010 La Conseillante offers back-to-back monumental efforts, particularly given the remarkable 2009. This estate has been on a hot streak of late. The 2010 is a slightly bigger, richer wine, but without losing its floral, elegant mulberry, black raspberry and sweet kirsch notes. Combine those with some licorice, subtle new oak and a hint of forest floor, and the result is a medium to full-bodied, rich, complex wine that has striking aromatics and perfect balance in the mouth. Forget it for 3-5 years and drink it over the following 30. Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (205)
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| + |
Bordeaux |
Red |
2010 |
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BT (75cl) |
7 |
Case of 12 |
£345.00 |
ib |
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90 |
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Coming from a totally separate vineyard, this blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot sports a dramatic label designed by Jade Jagger, the daughter of rock legend Mick. The wine is richly fruity, lush, fleshy, very flamboyant, and seems to have more in common with the 2009 vintage than the more structured, backward and restrained 2010s. The wine is medium to full-bodied, luscious and best drunk over the next 10-15 years.
Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (205)
Wine notes |
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| + |
Bordeaux |
Red |
2010 |
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BT (75cl) |
5 |
Case of 12 |
£535.00 |
ib |
|
95 |
|
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A complete, medium to full-bodied, exquisite Margaux from this medieval, moat-encircled, compellingly beautiful estate in the southern Medoc, D’Issan’s 2010 is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. The deep, gravelly soils mixed with clay have provided extraordinary aromatics. The yields were ridiculously low (22 hectoliters per hectare) and the wine tips the scaled at 13.7% natural alcohol. Production was small after the selection for the grand vin, and the result is a dense, purple-colored wine with beautiful aromatics of spring flowers, blueberries and black raspberries as well as hints of cassis, tar and charcoal. The wine is gorgeously pure, well-balanced, and soft enough to be approached in 4-5 years or cellared for 25-30. Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (205)
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| + |
Bordeaux |
Red |
2010 |
|
BT (75cl) |
4 |
Case of 12 |
£820.00 |
ib |
|
96+ |
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A splendid showing, much stronger from bottle than it was from barrel, the Leoville Barton is one of the spectacular wines of the vintage. Inky purple to the rim, its huge tannin gives this wine real potential for 30-50 years of longevity. It is a classic, powerful Bordeaux made with no compromise. A superstar of the vintage, the wine has notes of pen ink and creme de cassis, good acidity, sweet, subtle oak, and massive extraction and concentration. I thought it was one of the most backward wines of the vintage two years ago, and nothing has changed in the ensuing upbringing of the wine in cask except that the wine now seems even richer, denser and fuller than I previously thought. The beautiful purity, symmetry, and huge finish of nearly a minute make this one of the all-time great classics from Leoville Barton. Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (205)
Wine notes |
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| + |
Bordeaux |
Red |
2010 |
|
BT (75cl) |
8 |
Case of 12 |
£645.00 |
ib |
|
95 |
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Gorgeous, flowery, classic Margaux once again, the 2010 Malescot St.-Exupery continues to show virtually no toasty oak, given the impeccable balance and full-bodied, full-throttle style it possesses. Black raspberries, creme de cassis and spring floral notes intermixed with forest floor and a hint of charcoal are followed by an opulent, sexy, full-bodied wine whose tannins have become much sweeter, while the wine is less restrained yet still exuberant and impressive. This is a phenomenal example once again for this estate, harmonious in every sense of style, extraordinarily long, rich and ageworthy. Three to four years of bottle age will do wonders to make it more accessible, but this wine is set for 25-30 years of longevity. Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (205)
Wine notes |
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| + |
Bordeaux |
Red |
2010 |
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BT (75cl) |
13 |
Case of 12 |
£290.00 |
ib |
|
87 |
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Proprietor Alain Vauthier has turned out a solidly constructed wine that is dense purple in color and exhibits subtle smoke, graphite and blue and black fruits in a medium-bodied, relatively linear style. Drink it over the next decade. Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (205)
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