Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (205)

(Click tab to close this window)


Merlot:
Used for both blending and varietal wines, Merlot is the foremost grape in the Bordeaux. Merlot wines usually have a medium body with hints of berry, plum and currant. Its softness and fleshiness, combined with earlier ripening, makes Merlot a popular grape for blending with the sterner, later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon, with its higher tannin levels. Its name comes from the Occitan word “merlot” which means “young blackbird” – a nod towards the grape’s beautiful dark-blue colour. An offspring of Cabernet Franc (and therefore a sibling of Cabernet Sauvignon), it was first mentioned in 1784 where a labelled wine made from the grape attracted praise from all quarters.

The grape can easily be identified by its loose bunches of large, plump grapes. The colour is less or a blue/black hue than Cabernet Sauvignon and it has a thinner skin, with correspondingly fewer tannins. Pruning has a massive impact on the outcome of the wine, with reduced yields giving higher quality wine. Merlot has a propensity to quickly over ripen after hitting its initial ripeness level, sometimes in a matter of a few days. The renowned Chateau Petrus favours early picking to ensure acidity and ageing potential, while other growers favour late picking and the added fruitiness that comes with the additional ripeness of the fruit.

Merlot is now the most commonly grown grape in France, which claims two thirds of the world’s total Merlot cultivation.

Cabernet Franc:
Cabernet Franc is one of the major red grape varieties worldwide, principally being grown for blending with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the Bordeaux style, but can also be vinified alone, as is the case with the Loire’s Chinon.

As might be expected it is in general it is very similar to its offspring Cabernet Sauvignon, however it buds and ripens at least a week earlier. This allows the vine to thrive in slightly cooler climates, such as the Loire and even Canada. The winged bunches are elongate and small-medium in size, with the berries being quite small and blue-black in colour, with fairly thin skins. The grape is highly yield sensitive, with over-cropping producing wines with more green, vegetal notes than is usual.

In France it is found predominantly in the Loire Valley and in the Libournais region of the Bordeaux. As of 2000, it was the sixth most widely planted red grape variety in the country. Internationally speaking it can be found in Italy, Canada, and the USA in significant quantities. Interestingly in the USA it is used by ‘Meritage’ wines that aim to emulate the Bordeaux blend in California, while in Canada it is used to produce superlative ice wines with immensely concentrated flavours.

Malbec:
At one point Malbec was more popular in the Medoc region than Cabernet Sauvignon. Many of the great clarets of the 1800’s lasted well into the 1900’s – proof positive that Malbec has massive quality potential. However, its susceptibility to coulure, downy mildew and frost meant that it became increasingly unpopular. In 1956 a terrible frost wiped out a huge proportion of Malbec varieties in Bordeaux, allowing many growers to start a new with different, hardier varieties. Today it is most easily found in Cahors where AOC regulations stipulate that Malbec must compose at least 70 percent of the blend (with Merlot and Tannat rounding out the remaining percentage).

The variety has had a better lot in Argentina where it has become something of a “national variety” – the Argentine clone having smaller berries in smaller, tighter clusters. This may suggest it is descended from a clone that was wiped out in France during the phylloxera epidemic. The Argentine Malbec offers a plusher texture than the more rigid French Malbec, but offers similar ageing potential.

Back to top



(Click here to close this window)

(Click tab to close this window)

Often described as “the hill with a thousand chateaux” this region boasts over 800 winegrowers in total – only just falling short of its hyperbolic status. The oceanic climate is made more temperate by the cooling presence of the Dordogne. The fall is a sunny affair which is fantastic for optimal ripening.

The terroir is comprised of four major zones. The centre is a limestone plateau surrounded by terraces of chalk, clays and then silts. In the northwest of the region there is much sand, while in the south in the Dordogne valley there are airier soils of tiny stones and sand.

Given the above, the wines of Saint-Emillon vary a great deal from composed and intricate to powerful and dense, with the former being sourced from the south and the latter coming from the uncompromising limestone core of the region.
Cabernet Sauvignon, which drags its heels in terms of ripening, has little place here. Instead Merlot and Cabernet Franc take the fore at 60% and 30% of vines planted, respectively.

If it were possible to generalise these distinct wines it would be fair to say that they are, for the most part, warm, corpulent and vivid in colour. Flavours of plump red fruit berries with undertones of creamy vanilla, saddle-leather and soft spices are also to be found. This is layered with a velvet texture provided by solid yet supple tannins – giving an overall fleshiness.

Soils: Limestone, clay-limestone, gravels, chalks and silts.
Size: 5,500 hectares
Output: 36,000,000 bottles
Type of wine produced: Full-bodied reds, for the most part
Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Franc

[Click here for detailed map]  

(Click here close this window)

(Click tab to close this window)

Vintage Overview

One phrase which is being used increasingly to describe the 2010 vintage is ‘embarrassingly good.’ Given how 2009 was lauded to the heavens by the bordelaise as ‘the best ever’, it’s something of an awkward truth that – a mere twelve months later - we are faced once more with awe-inspiring quality. A due sense of cynicism is to be expected, but this mustn’t interfere with our appreciation of what is, quite objectively, a fabulous vintage.

Not that this came as a sudden surprise, as Bill Blatch (Bordeaux expert and negociant) notes: “Back in November, many owners were already quietly confident that their ’10 was better than the already legendary ’09 but, coming hot on the heels of the hallowed 2009s, they seemed embarrassed to say it too loudly. Today, half of Bordeaux is less timid in assessing ’10 as great as, if not greater than ’09.” He adds, “There is one point of total agreement: It is totally different from its predecessor.”

What we appear to have is more of a stylistic shift, while the quality has remained essentially static in its excellence. This quality isn’t reserved to the top tiers of Bordeaux producers, either. David Peppercorn MW observes that wines are attractive at all levels, from lesser properties all the way up to Grand Crus: “Those with lesser sites have made excellent wines.” He added that he would be quite happy to list many of them as everyday wines at the prestigious West End Garrick Club, where he sits on the wine committee.

The Reds

These are not wines for the faint-hearted, and in their excellence they are uncompromising. The average alcohol level is 14.5 per cent, peaking at 15.5 per cent in some cases. In addition, pH values are very low, acidity is obviously very high, and the tannins are formidable (ensuring fantastic ageing potential.)

Overall, these are ripe, dense wines packed with sweet fruit notes such as raspberry, strawberry and black cherry. Some are so richly flavourful that they take on a delicious ‘pruney’ dimension. Ordinarily this would be overpowering, but the keen balancing acidity keeps everything in check.

There is also what we might call a ‘rustic’ edge to many of these reds, in contrast to the silky voluptuousness of the 2009s. This is due to a searing hit of green tannins, which will develop and imbue the wine with steadily greater structure and balance.

Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc were generally picked in near-perfect conditions during the gloriously dry conditions of mid-October.

(Click here to close this window)