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Semillon:
Semillon, responsible for the legendary dessert wines of the Sauternes and once the most widely planted grape variety in the world, is today generally undervalued.

The variety is relatively easy to cultivate and consistently produces six to eight tons of grapes per acre from its vigorous vines. It is fairly resistant to all diseases with the notable exception of rot. The grape ripens early and adopts a pinkish hue. The thin skin means there is a definite risk of sunburn or raisining – therefore it is best suited to areas with sunny days and cool nights.

In France the Semillon grape is grown mostly in the Bordeaux where it is blended with Sauvignon blanc and Muscadelle. It is most famously known as the foremost contributor to the sweet white wines of Sauternes, Barsac and Cerons. In such wines the vine is exposed to “noble rot” or Botrytis cinerea which consumes the water content of the fruit, concentrating the sugar present in its pulp. When attacked by Botrytis cinerea the grapes shrivel and the acid and sugar levels are intensified.

It is also grown widely in Australia where it is used to produce a dry wine, usually exhibiting citrus flavours of lemon, lime or green apple. For some time it was incorrectly identified as Riesling.

Muscadelle

Muscadelle is one of the three authorized blending grapes for the production of white Bordeaux (along with Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon). It adds perfume to the bouquet and a fresh fruitiness to the taste of the wines into which it is blended.

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Stretching 50km along the Garonne River, the Graves is named after its soil – a potent blend of gravels, clays and sands. Pebbles and stones mixed with silts and clays rest on soils that are far sandier than the norm – in fact pure sand or hardpan (iron-oxide cemented sand) can be found. Some of the top estates even have deposits of white quartz in their soils. Unusually for the region, two-thirds of Graves is dedicated to white wine growth with Semillon taking the place of honour. The appellation of Sauternes gives rise to some of the world’s most clamoured after dessert wines.

The leading light of Graves is Chateau Haut-Brion – its only first growth, the other four belonging to the Medoc. Many estates here have an illustrious history – Chateau Pape-Clement was, as the name suggests, founded by the soon-to-be pope Bertrand de Goth. Planted in 1300 and with seven hundred harvests under its belt it is the oldest wine estate in the Bordeaux – comparatively, the region of Medoc only came into existence when the then-marsh was drained by Dutch engineers in the 17th century!

Soils: Gravels, clays and sands that are carried down from the mountains by the Gironde.
Size: 3,000 hectares
Output: 22,000,000 bottles
Type of wine produced: Robust medium to full-bodied reds and noble dry whites.
Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc for reds. Semillon, Sauvignon, Muscadelle for whites.

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Vintage Overview

One phrase which is being used increasingly to describe the 2010 vintage is ‘embarrassingly good.’ Given how 2009 was lauded to the heavens by the bordelaise as ‘the best ever’, it’s something of an awkward truth that – a mere twelve months later - we are faced once more with awe-inspiring quality. A due sense of cynicism is to be expected, but this mustn’t interfere with our appreciation of what is, quite objectively, a fabulous vintage.

Not that this came as a sudden surprise, as Bill Blatch (Bordeaux expert and negociant) notes: “Back in November, many owners were already quietly confident that their ’10 was better than the already legendary ’09 but, coming hot on the heels of the hallowed 2009s, they seemed embarrassed to say it too loudly. Today, half of Bordeaux is less timid in assessing ’10 as great as, if not greater than ’09.” He adds, “There is one point of total agreement: It is totally different from its predecessor.”

What we appear to have is more of a stylistic shift, while the quality has remained essentially static in its excellence. This quality isn’t reserved to the top tiers of Bordeaux producers, either. David Peppercorn MW observes that wines are attractive at all levels, from lesser properties all the way up to Grand Crus: “Those with lesser sites have made excellent wines.” He added that he would be quite happy to list many of them as everyday wines at the prestigious West End Garrick Club, where he sits on the wine committee.

The Whites

Put simply, these are fresh, decadently aromatic and dynamic. An outstanding success. Chilly nights in August meant that the freshness of the fruit was preserved, whilst a few wet days in September reinvigorated the vines in time for picking.

Expect lively, vibrant wines that possess a core acidity that runs all the way through them. Quality has soared across the board, and wines from the first growths . Haut Brion and Margaux . have set a new benchmark in terms of sheer quality on offer. Smith Haut Lafitte also dazzled tasters. It is abundantly clear that this vintage is full to the brim with delicious, juicy and refreshing white wines (regardless of whether they.re first growth or from Entre deux Mers!)

Both red and white wines have triumphed this year, but it is arguable that the whites are of an even better standard than their red counterparts. Climactically, conditions were simply ideal for white wine production.

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