This wine now exhibits the evolved, full-bodied, opulent style for which this 100% Merlot cuvee is renowned. Abundant mocha, cranberry liqueur, kirsch, licorice and subtle espresso roast and smoke (from new barriques) characteristics are found in this attractive St.-Emilion. Some of the concerns I had early on were not evident in the bottle, although I do not believe the 2009 is as flashy and concentrated as La Gomerie’s greatest efforts can be. Drink the 2009 over the next 15+ years.

This is one of the St.-Emilion estates that was devastated by hail damage in mid-May. Although the hail storm occurred too early to undermine the quality of the vintage, it did reduce yields to absurdly low levels. The result is an outstanding 2009 that has lost some of the tannic bite it revealed from barrel.

Made under the guidance of Hubert du Bouard, this blend of primarily Merlot and a tiny dollop of Cabernet Franc (around 9%) from the limestone soils on the hillsides of St.-Emilion exhibits a dense purple color, lots of chalky minerality and a big, sweet perfume of boysenberries, blackberries, licorice and burning embers. It is full-bodied and opulent with an abundance of fruit, glycerin, power and silkiness. Some tannins lurking in the finish suggest a half dozen years of cellaring will be required. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2035.

It has been many years since l’Arrosee made a wine this brilliant. Always one of the more delicate, Burgundian-styled St.-Emilions, the 2009 exhibits seductive, beautiful raspberry and black cherry fruit intermixed with hints of minerality as well as spicy oak. Lavishly concentrated, full and fresh, ethereal in both its texture and weight, and light on its feet, it can be drunk early in life yet has the stuffing and balance to last 20-25+ years.

Note: Bottle variation was an issue. This note is for the best tasting examples.

  Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (199)

This fairly priced Medoc from Jean-Hubert Delon (the proprietor of Leoville-Las-Cases) has hit almost 14% natural alcohol and looks to be the best wine made at this estate since 1982, which drank well for 15 years and cost about $4.00 a bottle in that era. Crisp, mineral notes intermixed with mulberry, black cherry and black currant fruit jump from the glass of this classic Bordeaux, which is both powerful and elegant. There is considerable substance to the wine, with its attractive texture and overall sense of precision and elegance. This is a sleeper of the vintage not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: now-2022.

Robert Parker,  Wine Advocate (199)

Tasted twice in Bordeaux, I must say that whatever was shown to me in cask certainly did not appear to be performing as well from bottle. It could be just that the wine has closed down, but I had thought this was an extraordinary wine and one of the big time sleepers of the vintage. The tannins have taken hold, and although the wine is still outstanding, any hopes of achieving a mid-90 point score, as I had hoped, seem highly questionable. Dense ruby/purple with notes of graphite, blackberries and forest floor, the wine is full-bodied, powerful, excruciatingly tannic and closed, and that may be why it’s not showing as well as I predicted. Certainly, this was the biggest discrepancy between barrel and bottle that I saw in the vintage, but the wine is still outstanding, just not profound. It will be interesting to revisit this wine in a number of years. Forget it for 7-8 years and drink it over the following 30.

Beautiful, Burgundian-like aromas of burning embers, roasted Provencal herbs, black currants and sweet cherries and raspberries emerge from this medium-bodied, elegant 2009 Pessac-Leognan. Medium to full-bodied and seductive with sweet tannins as well as a surprisingly evolved, precocious personality (even for a 2009), it will offer delicious drinking over the next 15+ years. This is another wine in which I noticed subtle bottle variation

An intriguing blend of nearly 50% Merlot, a whopping 35% Cabernet Franc and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon (a somewhat unusual combination for this region), the 2009 reminds me of the 1990. A big, inky/purple-tinged wine with just over 14% natural alcohol, it exhibits exotic, flamboyant aromas of espresso roast, incense, sweet black cherries, black currants, licorice, asphalt, barbecue smoke, Christmas fruitcake and herbs. Full-bodied with silky tannins, luscious fruit, a hedonistic yet complex personality, low acidity, noticeable tannin and enviable purity, this head-turning beauty can be enjoyed over the next 15-20 years.

This has been one of my favorite St.-Emilions since the late 1980s, when proprietor Stefan Neipperg began to resurrect this once moribund estate that made so many mediocre wines in the 1960s, 1970s and early 1980s (the 1982 was shameful). It is one of hundreds of examples of properties that have been returned to life, providing Bordeaux with greater quality, diversity and recognition than it has ever had in its long history.

Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (199)

This wine seems to be one of the few that has not yet recovered from bottling. In a somewhat monolithic, latched-down style, it has plenty of stuffing, lots of structure and an impressive dark ruby/purple color, but it is very hard to coax from the glass. It is a rather classic St.-Estephe made by the Tesseron family, with its distinctive blood orange label, but this wine seems to beg for another 5-7 years of bottle age. The final blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc has some impressive fruit, but the wine just seems slightly more clipped and narrow than I remember it from barrel. Hopefully, time will mellow out this impression. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2035.

Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (199)