The prodigious 2009 l’Evangile may be the greatest wine made at this estate during my 30+ years of tasting Bordeaux. Yields were 39 hectoliters per hectare, and the harvest was relatively long, with everything being picked at perfect maturity between September 11 and October 7. The estate is doing malolactic in barrel (a la Burgundy), and the final blend (95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc) achieved 14.5% natural alcohol. Amazingly, this cuvee is aged in 100% new oak barrels, yet no oak is present in the aromas or flavors. Readers should think of it as a better, richer, fuller, more alcoholic version of the 1982 l’Evangile. Dense, full-bodied, and opaque purple-hued, it boasts an extraordinary bouquet of spring flowers, blueberries, blackberries, and boysenberries. A blue and black mountain fruit character suggests coolness, but an intensity and voluptuous texture present the paradox of 2009. The wine has all the characteristics of a hot vintage in terms of power, texture, and richness as well as elements of a cool vintage in its precision, elegance, freshness, and vibrancy. Make no mistake about it, this is an enormous wine that is incredible to taste. Frankly, I could have drunk the entire barrel sample if it hadn’t been my first appointment of the day (at 8:15 a.m.)! This wine should drink well for 30-40 years. Bravo! (Tasted once.)

Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (188)

Two powerful efforts from proprietor Silvio Denz, the 2009 Faugeres may turn out to be one of the two or three finest examples of this cuvee. Fresh, with bright acids, a dense opaque purple color, and notes of graphite, blueberries, black currants, smoke, and charcoal, this full-bodied, intense, textured, rich 2009 is a blend of 85% Merlot and the rest primarily Cabernet Franc with a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon. Amazingly, it achieved 14.5% natural alcohol, and should drink well for 15+ years. Faugeres’ brain trust of consultants includes Michel Rolland and Stefan von Neipperg. (Tasted three times.)

Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (188)

The 2009 La Fleur de Bouard (made from yields of 45 hectoliters per hectare; 13.5% alcohol) is a Merlot-based wine with brilliant purity, abundant black cherry, plum, and boysenberry fruit, extraordinary density, decent acids, and high tannins. This full-bodied, concentrated, impressively endowed 2009 should age nicely for 10-15 years. At a recent tasting of the 2000 vintage, I was reminded of how great this estate’s luxury cuvee can be. It was off the charts in terms of richness and personality. (Tasted three times.)

Unquestionably a star of Lalande de Pomerol is the 50-acre estate of Hubert and Corinne de Bouard, who produce wines that fly well above their pedigree. Tasting through older vintages proves that these are the “real deal,” as they age quite well. One can even argue that the luxury cuvee, La Plus de la Fleur de Bouard, is one of the top twenty wines being produced in Bordeaux - a remarkable achievement given the appellation’s lack of status.

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The 2009 La Fleur Morange Mathilde is bottled early in order to emphasize the fruit character of the vineyard. With 14.5% alcohol, it is an exuberant, pure, hedonistic pleasure bomb filled with fruit and glycerin. Medium to full-bodied with no hard edges, it was fashioned from 100% Merlot from 50+-year old vines. (Tasted once.)

The brilliant Narbonne-based oenologist Claude Gros is the force behind these two fascinating offerings from St.-Emilion. 

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From yields of 27 hectoliters per hectare, the fruit for the uber-concentrated 2009 Fombrauge was harvested between October 6 and 22, very late in 2009, thus the super ripeness, concentration, and density. Notes of truffles, graphite, blackberries, and blueberries jump from the glass of this full-bodied, unctuously textured, thick, juicy St.-Emilion. The abundant tannin is largely concealed by the extravagant fruit and richness. The final blend is approximately 3/4 Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. It should drink well in 3-4 years, and last for 15-20. (Tasted three times.) 

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Made by Ausone’s proprietor, Alain Vauthier, this attractive, round, pretty wine is soft and generous, with loads of blueberry and raspberry fruit as well as hints of incense and crushed rock. It should drink well for a decade or more. (Tasted once.) 

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The 2009 Fontenil (95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon) displays a deep opaque purple color as well as notes of black raspberries, spring flowers, blueberries, and a hint of blackberries. Rich and full-bodied with admirable definition and precision, sweet tannin, and a long finish of over 35 seconds, it is a super effort as well as a big time sleeper of the vintage in 2009. Enjoy it over the next 10-15 years. (Tasted once.)
These appear to be the finest wines the brilliant oenologists Dany and Michel Rolland have produced at Fontenil, their home estate.

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This over-achieving sleeper of the vintage boasts a dense ruby/purple color as well as plenty of black cherry, asphalt, and earth notes in its dense, packed and stacked personality. Lots of glycerin, heady alcohol, and a long, supple finish suggest it will drink nicely for 6-8 years. (Tasted once.)  

Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (188)

Probably the best effort this estate has produced to date, this very voluptuously textured, soft, silky, full-bodied wine displays oodles of red and black fruits intermixed with licorice, underbrush, and foresty notes. It is dense, hedonistic, and certainly the best I have ever tasted from Franc Mayne. Moreover, an advantage will be its early drinkability, although it is certainly capable of lasting 15 or more years. (Tasted two times.) 

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Ferocious extract, huge tannin, an opaque purple color, and enormous richness all make for a potentially brilliant wine from this vineyard, located on the plateau of Pomerol just adjacent to Petrus. Probably a late finisher of malolactic given its showing on three separate occasions, this wine, which is enormously endowed, very rich, and full-bodied, has a chance to be the best Gazin ever made. However, patience will be a virtue, as the wine will certainly need 5-8 years of cellaring. (Tasted three times.)

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The 2009 Gironville is the best wine I have ever tasted from this estate in the southern Medoc. A blend of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Petit Verdot that achieved 14% natural alcohol, this sleeper of the vintage exhibits a dark purple color in addition to beautiful notes of graphite, blueberries, flowers, and cassis, and a long, layered mouthfeel. A sensational value, the 2009 should drink well for a decade. (Tasted once.) 

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This is the finest Giscours I have tasted in my professional career. Succulent and sexy with an inky/purple color, it offers sweet aromas of subtle barbecue smoke, graphite, blackberries, blueberries, and spring flowers. The tannins are remarkably sweet, substantial, and well-integrated, and the wine is full-bodied as well as voluptuously textured. It is a head-turning, exuberant, flashy effort that should drink well for 20-25 years. Bravo! (Tasted three times.) 

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  Wine notes

There have been many great Glorias over the years as this property consistently over-performs. The 2009 may be the finest yet produced. Loaded with notes of Christmas fruitcake intermixed with red and black currants, licorice, spice box, and blackberries, this inky/purple-colored wine is atypically full-bodied with a viscous texture, and loads of tannin, extract, and richness. Deep and layered, it will offer thrilling sipping over the next 25+ years. (Bottles of the 1982 I own are fully mature, but are not close to falling apart.) (Tasted two times.)

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  Wine notes

This estate had hail damage in mid-May, and yields were dramatically lower. One-hundred percent Merlot with 15% natural alcohol, there are more rustic tannins in this wine than normally, as this is usually a silky sexpot of a wine, voluptuous and opulent. This is certainly deep and rich, but it is a bit leaner and more austere than usual. The wine is full-bodied, powerful, but I do have a few lingering reservations about the type of tannins in the wine. (Tasted four times, inconsistent notes.) 

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Made by Cos d’Estournel’s Jean-Guillaume Prats and owner Michel Reybier, Goulee is meant to offer an introduction to a top-flight Bordeaux. Composed of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, it exhibits a sexy, upfront nose of sweet black currant fruit, cassis, blackberries, forest floor, and underbrush. Dense purple-colored and fleshy with abundant glycerin, this pure, deep, chewy wine will be delicious young and age nicely for 7-8 years. (Tasted once.)

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  Wine notes

Made by Cos d’Estournel’s Jean-Guillaume Prats and owner Michel Reybier, Goulee is meant to offer an introduction to a top-flight Bordeaux. Composed of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, it exhibits a sexy, upfront nose of sweet black currant fruit, cassis, blackberries, forest floor, and underbrush. Dense purple-colored and fleshy with abundant glycerin, this pure, deep, chewy wine will be delicious young and age nicely for 7-8 years. (Tasted once.)

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It’s a shame so little of this wine is made by sculptor Michel Gracia from his nearly eight acres of relatively old vines (all planted in clay and limestone soils). Yields were a minuscule 19 hectoliters per hectare in 2009, and the final blend was 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. A wine of enormous potential as well as character, this powerhouse (14.5% natural alcohol) offers up striking aromas of crushed rocks (almost to the point of being a liqueur of minerality), spring flowers, and black fruits as well as layer upon layer of fruit and concentration. One of the most prodigious offerings of the vintage, it is very much in character with previous Gracias, which tend to have a kinship with Chateau Ausone (not surprising since Michel Gracia is a dear friend of Alain Vauthier, who lends some informal support in the winemaking). This brilliant 2009 should age effortlessly for 25+ years. (Tasted three times.) 

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Possibly the finest wine yet produced at this estate, the 2009 is even fatter, richer, and more unctuously textured than the 2005 (which I loved). It boasts an opaque purple color, thrilling levels of sweet creme de cassis and blackberries along with hints of underbrush as well as forest floor, silky tannins, full body, and a plush, heady, opulent personality. This stunning wine should drink well for two decades. (Tasted three times.) 

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  Wine notes

I was surprised that this wine was not more concentrated given the overall character of the vintage, and I would rate it behind the 2005, 2000, 1990, and 1982. Nevertheless, it boasts this estate’s classic creme de cassis character as well as a soft, round, medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, pure fruit, and silky tannins, but not the weight, depth, or profound concentration of the top 2009 Pauillacs. Still, this cuvee will be approachable young, and should evolve easily for two decades. (Tasted two times.) 

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Sylvie Pourquet owns this property and has produced a wine of 70% Merlot and the rest equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Michel Rolland’s top assistant, Jean Philippe Fort, is the consultant. Alcohol here hit 14.5%, which seems to be a target for many St.-Emilions in 2009. This wine has a dense purple color, a sweet nose of red and black currants intermixed with incense, subtle background oak, fleshy, open-knit, light, opulent flavors, silky tannins, and a long, exuberant, even flamboyant finish, with terrific purity and overall balance. It should drink well for 15 or more years. (Tasted two times.) 

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This is the finest Gruaud Larose since the 1990. Without a hint of brett in the 2009, it exhibits an opaque purple color along with a big, sweet nose of creme de cassis, new saddle leather, spice box, and boysenberries. Made in a rich, broad, savory, juicy style with lots of succulence, but none of the masculinity and ruggedness often found in this offering, this wine is loaded with concentration and extract. The tannins are largely concealed by the remarkable intensity of fruit and density. It should be drinkable in 7-8 years, and last for 30-40. (Tasted two times.) 

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  Wine notes

The 2009 Guiraud is very tight on the nose, taking time to unfurl, with notes of apricot, peach, a touch of honeysuckle and quince. Good definition. The palate is impressive: tightly coiled, honeyed fruit, very fine acidity, linear at first then fanning out across the finish with notes of dried apricot, nectarine, a touch of almond and a faint hint of spice. With good length and unctuous on the finish, this Guiraud is impossible to ignore.

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  Wine notes

The 2009 Guiraud is very tight on the nose, taking time to unfurl, with notes of apricot, peach, a touch of honeysuckle and quince. Good definition. The palate is impressive: tightly coiled, honeyed fruit, very fine acidity, linear at first then fanning out across the finish with notes of dried apricot, nectarine, a touch of almond and a faint hint of spice. With good length and unctuous on the finish, this Guiraud is impossible to ignore.

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 The greatest Haut-Bailly ever made? One can’t speak enough of the job Veronique Sanders has done in 2009, allied with the owner, the American banker Robert Wilmers, who has given her carte blanche authority. Tiny yields have resulted in the most concentrated Haut-Bailly I have ever tasted. Eclipsing even the 2005, the 2009 (a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc) possesses 13.9% natural alcohol. Dense purple to the rim, it exhibits a precise, nuanced nose of mulberries, black cherries, black currants, graphite, and a singular floral component. A wine of profound intensity and full-bodied power, yet stunningly elegant, and never heavy or massive, it builds incrementally on the palate, and the finish lasts over 45 seconds. Remarkably, there is not a hard edge to be found in this beauty. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc were harvested between October 7 and 14, which explains their phenolic maturity. The wine’s extraordinary freshness, elegance, and precision are nearly surreal. This tour de force should age brilliantly for 40+ years. (Tasted two times.)

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  Wine notes

One of the best over-achieving, value-priced wines in Pessac-Leognan, Haut-Bergey’s vineyard enjoys a superb location near Malartic-Lagraviere and Domaine de Chevalier. Composed of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Cabernet Franc and a dollop of Petit Verdot, the opaque purple-hued 2009 reveals a big, exuberant nose of charcoal, black currants, sweet cherries, and graphite. Dense and full-bodied, with beautiful purity, texture, and length, it should drink well for 20+ years. (Tasted two times.) P.S. I also tasted the brilliant 2000 Haut-Bergey in March, 2010, and it was still a youngster in terms of its development 

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 Wine Advocate # 188. Apr 2010. Reviewer : Robert Parker. One of the best over-achieving, value-priced wines in Pessac-Leognan, Haut-Bergey’s vineyard enjoys a superb location near Malartic-Lagraviere and Domaine de Chevalier. Composed of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Cabernet Franc and a dollop of Petit Verdot, the opaque purple-hued 2009 reveals a big, exuberant nose of charcoal, black currants, sweet cherries, and graphite. Dense and full-bodied, with beautiful purity, texture, and length, it should drink well for 20+ years. (Tasted two times.) P.S. I also tasted the brilliant 2000 Haut-Bergey in March, 2010, and it was still a youngster in terms of its development. Drink: 2010 - 2030.

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  Wine notes

There are 10,500 cases of the 2009 Haut-Brion, from a blend of 46% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 14% Cabernet Franc. For technicians, the highest ever natural alcohol, 14.3%, was achieved, with a pH of 3.9, which is about the same as the 1989 and 1990, as well as 1959. This is the kind of wine to send chills even up my spine, and I have been tasting here for nearly 30 years. An extraordinary nose of plum, blueberry, raspberry, crushed rock, and that intriguing floral as well as unsmoked cigar tobacco note (a classic sign of this terroir) is followed by a wine of creamy unctuosity reminiscent of 1989, but there is a freshness, vibrancy and precision that is historic and possibly unprecedented. Some graphite emerges as the wine sits in the glass, but the wine is very thick while at the same time precise and elegant. This is the quintessential expression of one of the greatest wine terroirs of the world. To reiterate, the good news is that there are going to be 10,500 cases of Haut-Brion in 2009, which is about 1,500 more cases than the 9,000 produced in 2005. This wine will probably need 7-8 years of cellaring when released and evolve as well as the 1959 has (which is still a perfect wine today), so we’re realistically talking 50-75 years when stored in a cool cellar. (Tasted once.)

Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (188)

  Wine notes

There are 10,500 cases of the 2009 Haut-Brion, from a blend of 46% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 14% Cabernet Franc. For technicians, the highest ever natural alcohol, 14.3%, was achieved, with a pH of 3.9, which is about the same as the 1989 and 1990, as well as 1959. This is the kind of wine to send chills even up my spine, and I have been tasting here for nearly 30 years. An extraordinary nose of plum, blueberry, raspberry, crushed rock, and that intriguing floral as well as unsmoked cigar tobacco note (a classic sign of this terroir) is followed by a wine of creamy unctuosity reminiscent of 1989, but there is a freshness, vibrancy and precision that is historic and possibly unprecedented. Some graphite emerges as the wine sits in the glass, but the wine is very thick while at the same time precise and elegant. This is the quintessential expression of one of the greatest wine terroirs of the world. To reiterate, the good news is that there are going to be 10,500 cases of Haut-Brion in 2009, which is about 1,500 more cases than the 9,000 produced in 2005. This wine will probably need 7-8 years of cellaring when released and evolve as well as the 1959 has (which is still a perfect wine today), so we’re realistically talking 50-75 years when stored in a cool cellar. (Tasted once.)

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  Wine notes

Another offering from proprietor Jean Guyon, the 2009 Haut-Condissas possesses terrific concentration, perfect balance, and lots of black currant and blueberry fruit intermixed with forest floor, incense, and cedarwood. Viscous, rich, full-bodied flavors with abundant glycerin as well as fine elegance and purity reflect a top-notch effort. This impressive sleeper of the vintage can be enjoyed over the next 10-15 years. (Tasted once.) 

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Another excellent effort from this Cotes de Castillon estate, this 2009 from Juliette Becot is a blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc that tips the scales at 15.5% alcohol (the highest I tasted). The high alcohol is totally hidden because of the tiny yields (25.5 hectoliters per hectare) as well as the vintage character, which is one of great delicacy and freshness juxtaposed with unprecedented power and richness. A sleeper of the vintage, the 2009 Joanin-Becot possesses terrific opulence and layers of fruit and glycerin. This beauty should drink nicely for 10-15 years. Bravo! (Tasted four times.) 

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This inky/purple-hued Margaux reveals aromas and flavors of blackberries, cassis, espresso roast, graphite, and new oak. Full-bodied, layered, and rich as well as elegant and precise, it needs 5-6 years of cellaring, and should last for 25-30+ years. It is a very strong effort from Kirwan. (Tasted two times.) 

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  Wine notes

This outstanding l’Arrosee is consistent with the Burgundian style that this terroir routinely produces. Never massive, at its best it offers intense flavors of kirsch, raspberry, crushed rock, and spice box. The full-bodied flavors are ethereal in their delicacy. Full, but stylish, precise, intense, and never heavy, this beauty can be drunk early or cellared for two decades or more. (Tasted three times.)

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There are probably around seven casks of the 2009 L’Extravagant de Doisy-Daene, although that may decrease a little after racking. An equal blend of Semillon and Sauvignon, it delivers a record 220gms residual sugar and yet still exudes astounding minerality and precision, with touches of clear honey, frangipane and cold wet stones. The palate is full-bodied with a mellifluous texture, perfect acidity to slice through that rich botrytized fruit, stunning balance, citrus peel, apricot, Clementine, lemon curd and a hint of ginger. With awesome length, leaving that tingling sensation akin to Szechuan pepper, this wine truly lives up to its name.   

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  Wine notes

A very strong effort, this attractive Pomerol offers up plenty of jammy black fruits intertwined with herbs, spice, and oak. Medium to full-bodied with no hard edges and a lush finish, it should be enjoyed over the next decade. (Tasted once.)

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  Wine notes

The second wine, the 2009 La Dame de Montrose, is an amazing blend of 82% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon. Voluptuously textured, super juicy, and sexy with intense blue and black fruits, decent acids, and silky tannin, this 2009 is already irresistible, and should keep for 10-15+ years. (Tasted once.)

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  Wine notes

One of the old, historic vineyards in St.-Emilion, owned by a family that goes back to the 1400s, this wine has gone from strength to strength over the last decade. Cropped at 33 hectoliters per hectare in 2009, during a harvest that took place between September 29 and October 9, the final blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc will never produce a massive wine, but rather one of great elegance. The difference in 2009 is that this wine also has compelling intensity of fruit, and more opulence and viscosity than usual. At 13.5%, the alcohol is relatively modest compared to what many St.-Emilions achieved in this vintage. Dense purple, with terrific purity and a thickness without heaviness, black cherry, black currant, and super-concentrated cranberry and kirsch notes as well as hints of spring flowers and minerals are all present in this medium to full-bodied wine. It also possesses fabulous purity, texture, and transparency. Drink it over the next 30-35 years. (Tasted four times.)

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  Wine notes

La Mission Haut-Brion has made so many great wines over the last 100 years, it would be stupid to say the 2009 somehow exceeds this estate-s great classics, such as 1929, 1945, 1949, 1953, 1955, 1959, 1961, 1982, 1989, 1990, 1998, 2000, or 2005. Certainly it will take its place in the pantheon of all the great La Mission Haut-Brions ever made. There are 6,000 cases of it, made from a blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc. The natural alcohol hit 14.7%, which far exceeds the perfect wines of 1982, 1989 and 1990. Opaque purple in color, with an extraordinary nose of blueberry liqueur intermixed with camphor, charcoal, hints of burning embers and truffles, and loads of black berry and black currant fruit, the wine has sublime concentration and purity, a finish that goes well past 60 seconds, and not a hard edge to be found in this sumptuous, almost over-the-top, full-bodied wine of enormous power and massive density and richness. An immortal effort, it should drink well for 50-100 years! (Tasted once.)

Harvest started around September 9 at La Mission Haut-Brion, and finished almost a month later, on October 6. To get an idea of just how extraordinary all the wines from the Dillon family are in 2009, just consider how phenomenal the second wines are. 

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  Wine notes

This nearly 12-acre parcel on the clay and limestone plateau above Pavie Decesse has produced a killer succession of wines ever since the debut vintage of 1996. The 2000, tasted in preparation for a big article on that vintage, is just out of this world, as is the 1998, and remarkably, a very underrated wine, the 1997. The 2009 looks like another phenomenal effort. Is it better than 2005, 2000, or 1998? It’s too early to tell. A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, this wine tips the scales at an all-time high of 14.5% alcohol. Consultant Stephane Derenoncourt, who makes this wine for Stephan von Neipperg, said the crop yields were 18 hectoliters per hectare. The wine is painfully rich, but at the same time retains an extraordinary elegance and freshness. A full-bodied wine with plenty of raspberries, red and black currants, and a cool minerality, the wine is full-bodied, powerful, yet at the same time possesses sweet tannins, a very layered mouthfeel, and dazzling purity and length. It will need 5-7 years of cellaring and will drink well for three decades. (Tasted four times.) 

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  Wine notes

The 2009 La Tour Blanche is very primal on the nose with grapefruit, nectarine and apricot aromas. The palate is very well balanced, just a little oaky at the moment but with a very fine thread of acidity. Touches of fresh apricot, a hint of nougat, lime zest and white peach. Well balanced, linear at the front palate but voluminous and expanding across the mouth in every direction on the viscous, mineral-rich finish. There is so much potential here. Superb.

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  Wine notes