Chateau Petrus

An estate that has, since the mid-20th century, undergone a meteoric rise. Its wines are some of the most highly sought after and expensive in the world, having become something of a showpiece in Michelin-starred restaurants; and yet this was not always so.

Half a century ago it was a little-known estate that produced wines which were cheap and difficult to sell.

The earliest reference to the Petrus estate is in the early 1800s, long after the Medoc estates had become well established names. The name refers to St. Peter, who features on the label while sporting the keys to heaven.

It first enjoyed success along side Vieux Chateau Certan and Trotanoy, forming a Pomerol triumvirate of sorts. These wines sold better than their peers, though were priced the same as lesser growths on the left bank; at the time Pomerol was considered a fringe curiousity by comparison.

During the early half of the 1900s, particularly the inter-war period, Petrus left its fellow triumvirs in the dust. Pomerol’s leading domaine now slowly became the pride of Madame Edmond Loubat, who snatched up shares in a piecemeal fashion until eventually she was the sole owner by the conclusion of the Second World War.

She managed and marketed the estate with the help of a family who, during the years that have since passed, have proved themselves to be an important part of the Petrus story. In time they came to own it; the family was named Moueix.

The Moueix family have played a pivotal role not just in the success of Petrus, but of Pomerol as a whole. It began with Jean-Pierre’s father, Jean, who was from farming stock from Correze but who had settled in Paris with his wife. There they set up a successful chain of shops selling dairy produce.

In 1923 he and his wife chose to purchase Chateau Fonroque, though these were difficult times and wine was hard to sell. In these times of hardship their son, Jean-Pierre Moueix, unable to find a buyer for their wine and realising that strength came from diversification, established Etablissements Jean-Pierre Moueix. Through this business he traded in other wines, and the company was a resounding success. Today, Jean’s chateau is still home to a Moueix, but most will think of the quay-side business of Jean-Pierre’s descendents, Christian and Edouard, before they think of Alain Moueix at Fonroque.

Madame Loubat’s stalwart faith in her vineyard and the quality of her wine meant that prices steadily rose. Jean-Pierre Moueix handled the selling of these wines, and the two formed a strong friendship. When Loubat died with no heirs in 1961 it was no surprise that Moueix would inherit a share of the estate. The rest was bequeathed to the children of Loubat’s two sisters, Madame Lacoste and Monsieur Lignac. In the space of three years Moueix had already bought Lignac’s share, gaining control of the property.

In time Marie-Louis Lacoste also sold her remaining share to the Moueix family, who have had sole control ever since. Upon Jean-Pierre’s death it might have been expected that the estate would be willed to Christian, but instead it went to another son, Jean-Francois. Jean-Francois administers the estate and has sole distribution rights within France, but Christian and Edouard see to the vineyard, vinification, marketing and export distribution. They make for a formidable team.

The vineyards of Petrus are planted on dark, rich soils that are less gravelly than some neighbouring producers. The estate is also situated on the ‘Petrus button’, a mound that is 40 metres above sea level – the highest point in Pomerol, modest though it may be. Beneath this is a thick seam of iron-rich subsoil. Vines are planted at 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc; however, the latter is usually not included in the blend, making Petrus a pure Merlot wine in most cases. All told, there are 12 hectares.

Average vine age is over 45 years. Yields are limited by pruning and there is crop-thinning and de-leafing to boost quality. Harvest takes place manually, which can take place in the space of two afternoons after the morning dew has evaporated – a definite advantage. When the moisture persists the vines receive a blow-dry from a hovering helicopter! The yield is a frugal 35 hl/ha. The grapes are subjected to rigorous sorting before being fermented in temperature regulated concrete tanks, with maceration of the skins for 18-25 days. Blending takes place in December before the barrel ageing begins, using 100% new wood. The wine will then rest for two years before bottling.