Côte d’Or

Further south we hit upon Côte d’Or and this is the region which many feel is the ‘heart’ of Burgundy. For many, the ‘golden slope’ embodies the region – and certainly it is easy to have sympathy with this perception. The appellation runs on a rough north-south axis from just south of Dijon to Santenay. It is quite removed from the northerly Chablis, which in terroir, geography and style is perhaps more closely related to Sancerre. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay predominate here, and production is about four-fifths red and one-fifth white.

The area was settled by Celts, and there is considerable evidence of Roman occupation in the area. Later it came under the influence of the powerful Dukes of Burgundy, with the Cistercians from Citeaux Abbey playing a crucial role in the development of the vineyards. When contrasted with Bordeaux, Burgundy has a monastic rather than mercantile heritage.

Here the climate is slightly warmer, and the oil burners, sprinklers and electrical wires that litter the vineyards of Chablis are not to be found. The climate is continental and has relatively stable temperatures throughout the season – obviously the sea has no impact this far inland. Winds prevail from the west and often bring copious amounts of rain with them; nevertheless, the rain is not extreme, and neither is humidity or hours of sunshine. The region has all things in moderation which may seem unremarkable compared to others at first, but one must consider the sensitive Pinot Noir. This is a variety that is notoriously difficult to cultivate, and so the more serene, stable climate is ideal. There is also, of course, the importance of terroir to consider.

The slopes around the area are formed by water erosion and partly by ice erosion as we entered the current interglacial period. The earth was, like Chablis, submerged for millennia. The result is that small fossils litter the earth and the rocks of the ‘golden slope’ are overwhelmingly sedimentary, formed pressure enacting on sediment and organic debris on the ocean floor. The result is large amounts of limestone and marl, as well as fine clay, silt and sand. All of this translates through the nuanced Pinot Noir, resulting in wines of complexity, sophistication and intrigue.