“It’s liquid beauty.” – Denis Dubourdieu.
One phrase which is being used increasingly to describe the 2010 vintage is ‘embarrassingly good.’ Given how 2009 was lauded to the heavens by the bordelaise as ‘the best ever’, it’s something of an awkward truth that – a mere twelve months later - we are faced once more with awe-inspiring quality. A due sense of cynicism is to be expected, but this mustn’t interfere with our appreciation of what is, quite objectively, a fabulous vintage.
Not that this came as a sudden surprise, as Bill Blatch (Bordeaux expert and negociant) notes: “Back in November, many owners were already quietly confident that their ’10 was better than the already legendary ’09 but, coming hot on the heels of the hallowed 2009s, they seemed embarrassed to say it too loudly. Today, half of Bordeaux is less timid in assessing ’10 as great as, if not greater than ’09.” He adds, “There is one point of total agreement: It is totally different from its predecessor.”
What we appear to have is more of a stylistic shift, while the quality has remained essentially static in its excellence. This quality isn’t reserved to the top tiers of Bordeaux producers, either. David Peppercorn MW observes that wines are attractive at all levels, from lesser properties all the way up to Grand Crus: “Those with lesser sites have made excellent wines.” He added that he would be quite happy to list many of them as everyday wines at the prestigious West End Garrick Club, where he sits on the wine committee.
The Reds:
 These are not wines for the faint-hearted, and in their excellence they are uncompromising. The average alcohol level is 14.5 per cent, peaking at 15.5 per cent in some cases. In addition, pH values are very low, acidity is obviously very high, and the tannins are formidable (ensuring fantastic ageing potential.)
Overall, these are ripe, dense wines packed with sweet fruit notes such as raspberry, strawberry and black cherry. Some are so richly flavourful that they take on a delicious ‘pruney’ dimension. Ordinarily this would be overpowering, but the keen balancing acidity keeps everything in check.
There is also what we might call a ‘rustic’ edge to many of these reds, in contrast to the silky voluptuousness of the 2009s. This is due to a searing hit of green tannins, which will develop and imbue the wine with steadily greater structure and balance.
Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc were generally picked in near-perfect conditions during the gloriously dry conditions of mid-October.
The Whites:
Put simply, these are fresh, decadently aromatic and dynamic. An outstanding success. Chilly nights in August meant that the freshness of the fruit was preserved, whilst a few wet days in September reinvigorated the vines in time for picking.
Expect lively, vibrant wines that possess a core acidity that runs all the way through them. Quality has soared across the board, and wines from the first growths – Haut Brion and Margaux – have set a new benchmark in terms of sheer quality on offer. Smith Haut Lafitte also dazzled tasters. It is abundantly clear that this vintage is full to the brim with delicious, juicy and refreshing white wines (regardless of whether they’re first growth or from Entre deux Mers!)
Both red and white wines have triumphed this year, but it is arguable that the whites are of an even better standard than their red counterparts. Climactically, conditions were simply ideal for white wine production.
Sauternes/Barsac:
Not quite so opulent and concentrated as their stunning predecessor, but the Sauternes and Barsacs of 2010 compensate for this by being the prettiest vintage in a very long time. Lovely, pure, fresh and floral – these are lush, sweet wines that are simply delectable.
“Overall, the 2010s are in a lighter, slightly less opulent style than many other recent good vintages - they are less sweet and less massive than the rich 2009s, for example. These are very pretty wines, with lovely bright acidity and beautifully pure fruit flavours, which should be particularly delicious in their youth.” – Ken Mackay MW.
For more information, see the following: Bordeaux En Primeur 2010 Report | 2010 Bordeaux En Primeur Review | Quotes on En Primeur Bordeaux 2010 Vintage | 2010 Bordeaux En Primeur Quick Overview | Bordeaux 2010 En Primeur: Market Trends and Pricing | En Primeur Ltd Client Services & Benefits | North Rhone 2009 En Primeur Report | Rhone - Wine Region of the Year 2010 | Southern Rhone 2009 En Primeur Report | Wine Investment (Asian Market) | Fine Wine Investment
Click here to see our 2010 Bordeaux En Primeur wine list and pricing. |
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